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Gastronomic highs (Clockwise from left) Laangban's kanom krok, crispy rice cups filled with galangal coconut cream and scallop ceviche; Churchgate Station; salmon mi-cuit at Le Pigeon, with nectarines, sungold tomatoes, palm hearts and spiced nori vinaigrette; Gabriel Rucker community. Portland has such a pioneering spirit. It’s a curious and hungry place, full of independent creatives attracted to the out-of-the-box.” Here, she found the perfect opportunity to open her own place, where she could serve tarts and quivering lemon souffés alongside savoury small plates such as artfully arranged smørbrød and slow-roasted sturgeon. “It seemed the perfect place to try out my French- Norwegian pastry luncheonette,” she says. “I opened it on a dare and, happily, Maurice has been welcomed and now become my home.” seasonal beers with everything from stone fruits to yarrow flowers. But dining in Portland wasn’t always this exciting. When I moved to the city in 2005, our white-hot food scene was just a spark. Now, it’s hard to keep up. How did this leafy-green, bridge-bedecked city manage to become such a hot destination, in which risk-taking and culinary creativity abound? Café culture Owned by chef Kirsten Murray, Maurice, in downtown Portland, is a bright white jewel box of a café, an oasis of calm in the city’s urban core. Murray came to Portland in 2008, armed with a Michelin-starred pedigree that includes tenure at Gramercy Tavern and Aquavit in Manhattan and stints in Alsace with famed pastry chef Christine Ferber. Though the ambitious restaurant that recruited her out West turned out to be forgettable, her desserts weren’t, and the gracious, enormously talented chef quickly found an enthusiastic audience. Manoeuvring Jaguar’s electric I-PACE across town, I arrive in time for a cup of Ceylon tea and a supremely silky slice of quiche. Murray tells me the reasons that she decided to stay in Portland: “I fell in love with the Global appeal Back in the driving seat, I head across the river to meet John Gorham, a chef who’s been instrumental in building Portland’s culinary reputation for ‘DIY’ ingenuity. The I-PACE shows immense agility as I navigate eastward toward Hawthorne Bridge. Of the city’s 12 car- or bus-accessible bridges that cross the Willamette River, the Hawthorne is the oldest, at 109 years, and one of four that lift to let boat traffc pass. In lesser cars, the metal grating on its roadbed makes for a boisterous ride, but not this one; a tap of the pedal and the I-PACE streams past an unwieldy TriMet bus. Tasty n Daughters is Gorham’s inspired take on the American tavern, an intimate, dark-panelled space illuminated by broad shafts of natural light. Entering the restaurant, the aroma of garlic and roasting tomatoes fills the room, complemented by the clatter of drinks being mixed and shaken, and the chatter of diners. The menu is an international blend of comfort food – Moroccan shakshuka and Turkish pide alongside crispy fried chicken tucked between flaky Southern biscuits. It’s a menu without boundaries, drawn together by a common theme of fresh and fragrant local ingredients. The restaurant is a rebrand of the wildly successful, now-closed Tasty n Sons, and part of the nine-restaurant empire that Gorham and his wife Renee run with gusto. Gorham has come a long way since his arrival in the early 2000s, when the first wave of chefs pitched up in Portland, ready to mine the city for all that its food credentials could offer. “So much of this creativity was the result of the real-estate market being undervalued,” says Gorham. “It was easy to have an idea and bring it together without investors – you’d have a clear through-line of creative ideas from the chefs. The more partners you have, the more it stifles creativity.” Cheap rent and cheap liquor licences, plus an 24 / Jaguar Magazine
Travel “I like it when people come up to me and say, ‘Wow, this is Indian food?’’’ Troy MacLarty Jaguar Magazine / 25
Jaguar Magazine celebrates creativity in all its forms, with exclusive features that inspire sensory excitement, from beautiful design to cutting-edge technology.
In this issue, we explore the art of creativity from the Brazilian masters who devised the graceful art of Capoeira, to the Irish artists mixing new culture with old. You will also discover the creative line that links Victorian wallpaper to the iPhone. While the multi-talented actor and performer, Riz Ahmed, explains why it is the right time to reveal his true self to the world.
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